We thought we’d start our Labor Day getaway with a trip to Lewistown and a visit to the Bear Gulch pictographic site. Montana COVID numbers were low in August, so it took a while to process the discovery that site would nevertheless be closed; that viewing centuries-old Native American art at an outdoor site, 20 miles from town might still constitute a valid risk. And yet, there it was; irrefutable proof that, even in the heart of Montana’s Judith Basin country, we were dealing with a plague like no other.