Fall In Love With Idaho

Really good secrets are hard to keep.
So, I have to give this one up right away.
Idaho is paradise.

– By Amanda Bjerke Skywest Magazine

I know, there’s not much poetry in the name. Idaho doesn’t have the same lilt as Colorado, or Montana, or even Arizona. Maybe that’s why my home state remains anonymous in much of the world. (Even some Californians, our “almost near” neighbors, get it mixed up with other multi-voweled locales—Iowa, Ohio, even Indiana.) More often than not, those who have heard of it, tend to play that unfortunate word-association game. I say “Idaho.” You say “potato.” If you’ve been here, you know better.

Idaho, suitably nicknamed the Gem State, is much more than a cosmic-sized stretch of spuds. Warmer than most Rocky Mountain states, drier than the PaciÄc Northwest, Idaho beneÄts from a mild four-season climate. Its diverse terrain, greater than the surface area of New York, includes mountains and rivers, high-desert plains, large lakes, and the greatest chunk of wilderness in the lower 48-states. Its rich heritage is populated by the likes of Lewis and Clark, Sacagawea, Chief Joseph, and lesser-known individuals who left a communal mark on society—Chinese, Native Americans, Basques. The state’s historic landscape lingers in ghost towns, mining camps, and rustic high-country communities. Its vibrant modern cities and bustling towns are populated by friendly people—strangers who smile and say hello. It’s what lots of places used to be and wish they could be again.

Idaho summers are a frenzy of outdoor activity. So many rivers offer a fast ride. So many trails beg to be explored. So many golf courses, so many restaurants with fresh-air dining, so many campgrounds and alpine lakes.

Autumn’s pace slows just enough to make things comfortable. Relaxing? You bet. Lovely, too. Fields and forests glisten in shades of amber, and ocher. Yellow-needled tamarack punctuate deep evergreen thickets with dazzling color. Morning mountain air grows heavy with the scent of wood smoke and fallen leaves. At night, starshine dazzles the eye and sparks the imagination. Autumn is the perfect time to fall in love with one of America’s best-kept secrets. Read on and discover some of Idaho’s great gateways to adventure.

BOISE
Encounter Idaho’s state capital at a perfect point in the community’s evolution from big town to small city. You’ll discover fabulous dining and entertainment in the rapidly emerging downtown area. Check out the sidewalk cafes lining pedestrian-friendly 8th Street. Amble a few blocks south, cross Grove, and catch live entertainment at one of the many clubs and theaters. The museums of Boise’s cultural district are within walking distance across Capitol Boulevard. So is the historic Basque Block, just to the north—a superbly preserved tribute to the people of the Pyrenees Mountains and their role in Idaho history. Old Boise, on Main Street between Capitol and Fifth Streets, attracts more Bohemian-types with a quirky assortment of coffeehouses and pubs. Most have outdoor accommodations. Make the most of an Indian Summer that stretches through October. Take a walk on the Greenbelt; cast a line in the Boise River. Watch the Boise State University Broncos (ranked 16th in the nation last year) strut their stuff on the football Äeld’s distinctive blue turf.

Reserve some time to get out of town, too. Hike in the nearby foothills, explore trails around Bogus Basin ski area. Head to an apple orchard for fresh-pressed cider, or feel like a kid and lose yourself in an intricately designed corn maze just west of the city.

For an easy encounter with the past, follow highway 21, east of Boise, to Idaho City. In 1865, during the peak of Idaho’s gold boom, this place was bigger than Portland. Many of the old buildings, including the jail and newspaper ofÄce are well preserved. Even if you don’t care a hoot about history, the restaurants and shops are worth the 40-mile drive through spectacular fall foliage.

IDAHO FALLS
This site has been serving travelers ever since a Civil War-era entrepreneur charged miners to cross his toll bridge over the churlish Snake River. Today a paved Greenbelt Åanks the Snake, and the city welcomes adventurers to some of America’s most impressive landscapes. The River’s legendary Henry’s Fork, among the world’s Änest Äshing holes, is just 28 miles from town. It, and other stellar waters—the South Fork of the Snake, Henry’s Lake, the Madison and Big Hole—attract Åy-Äshers to Idaho Falls from throughout the world. While restrictions vary depending upon the area being Äshed, much of the river within Harriman State Park, is open for Åy-Äshing through the end of November.

Don’t know a woolybugger from a pair of waders? The scenery around these rivers is still worth the trip to the waters’ edge. Moose, elk, deer, otter and even mountain goats can be spotted in the wild places around Idaho Falls.

Upper and Lower Mesa Falls, two incredible torrents on the Henry’s Fork about 50 miles north of town, are among the nation’s most spectacular undisturbed waterfalls. At Lower Mesa Falls, the river is squeezed into a Gorge that drops 65 feet. It’s easy to see this phenom’ from the Grandview Campground and Overlook. The blaze of autumn colors makes this a favorite day trip for locals and visitors alike. Once there, enjoy a picnic, relax and explore. Hikers and mountain bikers Änd a collection of accommodating trails in the area (even if one of them was originally blazed by moose). Be sure to bring a camera and the longest lens you own. Osprey and eagle are usually spotted here. If you visit before noon, you’ll probably encounter a rainbow radiating from the water.

The “metropolis” of Idaho Falls (population just over 50,000) beneÄts from the presence of the Idaho National Engineering and Environmental Laboratory. It attracts a highly cerebral set. They enjoy a symphony, opera, several theater and musical performing groups,
as well as a cityscape with plenty of open space. The Greenbelt is an easy walk along the river (2.3 miles in all). Rent roller-blades for an added workout, play golf on one of the city’s four courses, or spend a day at the zoo.

NORTHERN IDAHO
Fly to Spokane, Washington, to access this sliver of pine-scented Idaho Nirvana. Wedged within a 45-mile stretch between Washington and Montana, northern Idaho’s deep forests and lakes soothe the soul and rouse the senses with a vibrant assault of autumn colors.

The showpiece of this region is Lake Coeur d’Alene, 25 miles long, with more than 180 miles of shore. It draws huge summertime crowds. The big attraction—a Äve-star resort of the same name heavy on amenities and activities. This is the place to jet-ski, parasail, paddleboat, or glide in a canoe. It is also home of the world’s only golf course with a Åoating green. (To add extra oomph to the challenge, the almost Äve-million pound hole is moved regularly.)

Only hotel guests get to golf, but there are ample other diversions in this resort town. Autumn, when the swarms of tourists return home, is a great time to scout the shops on Sherman Avenue, golf on a public course, picnic in one of the town’s many parks, or amble along an urban path. The 23-mile North Idaho Centennial Trail goes all the way to Spokane and beyond.

To really experience the serenity of this place in fall, rent a canoe and paddle along the lakeshore. Never done it before? Guides are available. If resort life isn’t to your liking, head to the south. About 26 miles from the resort, the St. Joe River’s waters Åooded more than 75 years ago, during construction of a dam and consumed three small lakes. A profusion of birds exists along these shadowy waters.

Wildlife-watchers will also enjoy a north Idaho cruise. Boat rides across the big lake depart from the Coeur d’Alene resort regularly. The River Queen, a beautiful stern-wheeler, offers tours chock full of history along the Spokane River. It departs from Post Falls, another recreation-laden community.

POCATELLO
This is a great place to experience Idaho’s dramatically diverse terrain, especially in the fall of the year when the weather is perfect. Daytime temperatures typically reach into the 70s through October, while nights are comfortable and cool. Cold fronts rarely move into town before late November. Do remember to consult a forecast before venturing beyond the city. Pocatello sits in a lovely valley at the mouth of the Portneuf Canyon. Mountains rise on three sides. Within 15 miles to the east, peaks soar to more than 9,000 feet, while a lava-rock desert, punctuated with sand and sagebrush is just 25 miles to the northwest. Hot springs are seemingly everywhere. The mineral waters are corralled into a kitschy commercial venture at Lava Hot Springs 35-miles southeast of town. Make it a fun day trip and scope out some of the area’s other outdoor opportunities.

The public lands in and around this city (named for an Indian Chief) attract mountain bikers, hikers and rock climbers from throughout the globe. A 12-mile paved Greenway along the river accommodates joggers, roller bladers, and urban walkers. A network of trails criss-crosses the hills and valleys. There are so many mountain bike trails (ranging from very easy jeep roads to single tracks designed for expert riders) that it’s a good idea to consult a trail guide to Änd the one right for you. The Idaho State University Outdoor Program published an excellent overview of the area by Bruce Black, find it online at http://www.isu.edu/outdoor/mtbike.htm.

The University’s influence is apparent throughout town—especially in autumn when the school’s Bengals play. Bookstores, art galleries, and the variety of restaurants in Old Town (as the downtown area is called) are other signs that the academic community brings a wider world to Pocatello.

SUN VALLEY
America’s first ski resort carries more cachet than other Western getaways. No place else beneÄts from such a fabled founding or distinguished legacy. In 1935, Union PaciÄc tycoon Averell Harriman commissioned Count Felix Schaffgotsch to discover the premiere place for a lavish winter resort. After devising a rigid series of criteria, the count combed America’s West in frustration until he came upon Ketchum, Idaho, an old mining town in a spectacular setting—a site he deemed more stunning than any he’d seen in Europe or America. At his urging, Harriman created Sun Valley, a lavish resort beÄtting the location.

Sun Valley continues to combine the elegant sophistication that Harriman mandated with phenomenal outdoor recreation. Splendid in all seasons, the community nicknamed “America’s Shangri-la” is exquisite in autumn. The lodge, as always, exudes style and class. Rates are lower in the fall, but the amenities stay the same. Days remain sunny—ideal for roller blading or hiking the 48-mile long, area-wide bike path. The lodge’s pools and skating rink remain open. Mountain biking, Äshing, wildlife-viewing make for relaxing diversions. Climb Baldy—as the landmark Bald Mountain is commonly known. Picnic on the mountain; enjoy the view.

Hunters with a yen for stalking deer and elk by day and bedding down on Egyptian cotton at night will Änd Sun Valley the perfect place to rough it in style.

Beyond the resort, the nearby town of Ketchum offers a bounty of one-of-a-kind shops, galleries, restaurants and clubs. It’s also a good place to spot celebrities who still know Sun Valley is an “A-list” place to kick back and relax.

TWIN FALLS
The heart of the aptly named Magic Valley, Twin Falls provides entrance to a fascinating mix of open-air adventure—canyons, waterfalls, rivers.
Here the vibrant Snake River carves through a high desert in the shadow of the mountains. The resulting Canyon, over 486 feet deep and more than 1,500 feet across in places, is best known to the outside world as the spot where daredevil Evel Knievel failed to Åy a motorcycle.

Locals know it as a place of refuge. Wildlife, raptors and other birds make their homes here. People Änd tranquility and rest. Minutes from downtown, the Centennial Park Trail offers fast and easy access to the autumn beauty of the Middle Snake River Canyon. Reached from Twin Falls’ landmark Perrine Bridge, the trail follows the river into the heart of the canyon.

Twin Falls’ bridges and canyons are favored “jumping off points” for BASE adventurers (people who jump from buildings, antennas, spans of bridges and earthen peaks or walls). To experience the same sights at a slower place and without the adrenalin buzz, take a hot air balloon ride over the canyon and Snake River Plain. The aerial view reveals a patch of green on the canyon Åoor. Yes, there are golf courses down there. Duffers with a penchant for unusual play, will enjoy a round, way down in the ground. The car-trip to the clubhouse is almost as exciting as the play!

No visit is complete without time at a waterfall. There are dozens in the area. The granddaddy of them all, Shoshone Falls cascades 212 feet—52 feet higher than Niagara—and is best viewed from October through April when the waters are not diverted for irrigation. Like all of southern Idaho, Twin Falls enjoys a moderate climate. However, fall, when high-desert temperatures dip into the 70s and the light rivals that of the south of France, is an ideal time to visit.

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